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Glossary

Alkyl Polyglucosides (Coco Glucosides)
Originating from coconut, this natural foamer is used as a primary surfactant in many of our products. Mild and non-irritating, it produces quick bubbles, but not to the degree of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, so the performance is slightly different. Almond Oil: For skin and hair care; moisturizing. A good source of Vitamin D. Suitable for all skin types. Especially for dry or irritated skin.

Allantoin

Is a botanical extract of the comfrey plant and is used for its healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. Allantoin helps to heal wounds and used by most major skin care companies

Apricot Kernel Oil
For skin care; moisturizing. Rich in essential fatty acids, Oleic and Linoleic acid. Spreads easily on the skin. Helps regulate moisture and restructure of skin. Nourishing and revitalizing. Good for baby, dry and mature skin. 

Avocado Oil        
This unsaturated oil is cold pressed and retains all its natural vitamins and minerals. Closely matches the skin in its makeup and has been used to hospitals to help heal burn victims.  Avocado oil is very nourishing to the skin and naturally rich in 14 vitamins and 11 minerals, especially large amounts of vitamin D and potassium. The avocado has the highest protein content of any fruit.

Aloe Vera

Well known for its topical properties of skin rejuvination. Helps correct minor flaws and frequently touted as a natural anti-oxidant, able to build cell structure in skin

Camellia Sinensis (Japanese Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Chamomile
Offers soothing properties and eases skin irritation. Historically popular as a tea, yet found to have benefits in treating epidermal problems.

Carbomer
Carbomers are synthetic, high molecular weight, non-linear polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyalkenyl polyether. They are used in cosmetics as emulsifying, thickening, suspending and dispersing agents.

Castor Oil
Acts as a humectant by attracting and retaining moisture to the skin.
 

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
An natural emollient oil that has a soft feel composed of caprylic (C8) and capric fatty acids (C10) derived from coconut or palm kernel oils. They are heated, esterified with glycerin and deodorized. The end result is an edible oil that is labelled as caprylic/capric triglycerides; captrin or medium-chain triglycerides. Primarily used as an emollient and ³slip² agent. Seen in many lotions, eye shadow, foundations and creams offering a soft feel and easy glide when applied.

Cetyl Alcohol    
A secondary emulsifier that thickens or adds body to lotions. This is a fatty acid, similar to wax. Not to be confused with drying, ethyl alcohols. (like rubbing or isopropyl alcohol)

Chamomile Extract
   
Extract made from the flowers of anthemis nobilis. This daisy like plant has white and yellow flowers which the chamomile is extracted from. Used for its soothing properties and an excellent anti-inflammatory agent, it is reputed to bring down swelling and pain in the skin and mucous membranes, plus calms eczema and allergic reactions.

Chlorophyll    
The green coloring matter in plants. Known for its natural cleansing and moisturizing properties.

Chrysin
Chrysin belongs to the flavone class of flavonoids. Chrysin is found naturally in various plants including the Pelargonium species, which are germanium-like plants; the Passiflora or passion flower species, which include tropical passion fruit; and the Pinaceae species, including pine trees.


Citric Acid    
An organic acid. Naturally occurring in citrus fruits and used to adjust the pH of products.

Clay
-See Bentonite or Kaolin

Cocoa Butter
   
Obtained from cocoa beans, used as an emollient. Used in suntan lotions as well as the manufacture of chocolate.

Coconut Oil
   
Natural oil derived from coconuts. Has a defatting effect on skin which is overcome by using coconut oil- deprived esters rather than the oil itself. Surfactants derived from coconut oil have good cleansing properties and are generally known to be mild.

Cocamide MIPA
Cocamide MIPA is an emulsifying agent and stabiliser..

Cucumber Extract (Cucumis sativus)
It¹s juices have been used for over a thousand years against wrinkles, lines, freckles, blemishes, sunburn and dry skin. Cucumber is a natural astringent and helps tighten pores. Contains potassium, silicon, and sulfur. Imparts a soothing feeling. Commonly used in skin care products as an anti-inflammatory, an excellent skin-soother and skin-conditioning ingredient.

Cyclomethicone
Cyclomethicone is a clear, odourless silicone.

Decyl glucoside
Is plant-derived and biodegradable.

De-Ionized/Demineralized Water 
Water run through active resin beds to remove metallic ions and filtered through a submicron filter to remove suspended impurities.

DHA (DeHydroxyAcetone)
   
Derived from sugar cane, causes the surface layer of your skin to oxidize, creating a natural-looking tan.

Disodium EDTA

A salt used to stop minerals forming in a product that contains water. (chelating).


* Diazolidinyl Urea (+ Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate "Germal Plus")
A preservative used at low levels of 0.2% (1/5th of a percent). This is a full spectrum preservative that is recognized by most health agencies around the world. It is needed for safety and shelf life to cover e.coli, staphylococcus, mold, yeast, fungus and micro organisms.

DMDM Hydantoin
DMDM Hydantoin is a preservative and is also known as glydant. DMDM Hydantoin is a broad-spectrum anti-microbial agent, effective against fungi, yeast and gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria.

* "formaldehyde is a naturally occuring process on this planet, and many living things create formaldehyde, the leaves in your back yard, your body or nearly any product in a bottle to some degree or another.  Where people get confused is if an amine is present, its the "free formaldehyde" thats a problem, not formaldehyde itself.
In a typical product, we use DMDM Hydantoin at just 0.2% as a preservative, and this "free formaldehyde" accounts for 6 parts per billion and almost undetectable with current technology. To put this into perspective, the chlorine in water is 5 parts per million and carbon monoxide in the average home is 2 parts per million (10 parts will kill you). Basically, your ingesting and breathing things that are much worse for you than what the by product of this preservative would ever do....and I don't even want to talk about what we eat.  Its a knee jerk reaction when people see things on the internet."


Durutoside (Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract )
Extracted from the herb Siegesbeckia orientalis L, this small composite plant or small shrub has been used for thousands of years to sooth inflammation and stimulate wound healing. The plant has sticky bulbs and contains a white crystalline residue resembling salicylic acid. This extract helps regenerate skin tissue, promoting elasticity to damaged skin with collagen fibers.

Emulsifying Wax NF  (Polo Wax)
As a wax, it comes as white flakes and is usually made up of two components, a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid. Naturally derived, it is used as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer.  

Glyceryl Mono Stearate
A wax like solid emollient, emulsifier derived from natural stearic acid and glycerin

Grapeseed Oil
       
An ultrafine oil derived from grapeseeds with a thin viscosity.  

Grape Seed Extract
(Vitis vinifera)
Grape seed extract is derived from the small seeds of red grapes. Used extensively in Europe, grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids, phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties some consider even greater than the old standbys vitamin C and vitamin E.

Guaraná
Guaraná is a creeping shrub native to the Amazon basin of Brazil, often growing to 40 feet/12 m high and bearing fruit with seeds. Botanist James Duke cites tribal uses of these seeds as a preventive for arteriosclerosis; as an effective cardiovascular drug; as an analgesic, astringent, febrifuge, stimulant and assists in hypertension, migraine, neuralgia, and dysentery. Guaraná is consumed daily as a health tonic by millions of Brazilians. It contains xanthine alkaloids (caffeine, theophylline, theobromine) which are believed to contribute significantly to guaraná ¹s therapeutic activity. In body care products, it contains tonifying and astringent properties, with lipolytic (fat burning) and vasodilation abilities to help burn fat.

Haloxyl
Haloxyl is known for reducing dark rings and puffiness under the eyes. HALOXYL  prevents and diminishes the appearance of dark circles under the eyes. Based on a matrikine complex, HALOXYL targets the underlying cause of dark circles.

Hemp Oil
This cold pressed oil is similar to olive oil in its make-up, but includes omega 3 & 6, typically found only in fish. It contains essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals and is considered exceptional for skin care applications as its not hydrogenated.

Hydroxysuccinimide

An anti-oxidant for oils used in minute quantities .



Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate see
Diazolidinyl Urea
 
Japanese Green Tea
Reported to fight damage from excessive sun and environmental damage.  Primarily this ancient asian plant has ability to prevent free radicals from damaging cell structure further.

Jojoba Oil        
The history of jojoba is well documented. This thick waxy oil is also similar to sebum and penetrates quite readily. Excellent moisturizer and offers cellular renewal.

Kaolin Clay
Kaolinite (White Clay) is the mildest of all clays. It is suitable for all sensitive skin and helps stimulate circulation, while gently exfoliating and cleansing. It does not absorb or remove oils from the skin and therefore can be used on dry skin types or in dry weather conditions.

Karite Butter - See Shea Butter

Mangifera Indica (Mango Fruit)

Matrixyl
Matrixyl is an alternative to Retinol (Vitamin A derivative) and is recognized as an effective wrinkle reducer, wrinkle reduction treatment based on a messenger peptide that stimulates the production of dermal matrix molecules to significantly reduce the appearance of wrinkles. A gentle, effective and stable alternative to Vitamin C and Retinol.

Mushroom Extract (FOMES OFFICINALIS)
A natural astringent shown to improve skin tightness and firmness as it diminishes the appearance of pores.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a tripeptide that enhances the product of collagen.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide -3
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Pal-KTTKS) is a relatively small molecule. It consists of five amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid to enhance oil solubility for the sake of better skin penetration.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide that is a fragment of immunoglobulin G that has been combined with palmitic acid to make it more lipophillic and thus enhance its affinity towards human skin.

Polysorbate-20

Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol which is obtained from various types of fruit.


Retinal Palmitate (Vitamin A)
In cosmetics, vitamin A derivatives are used as anti aging chemicals- vitamin A is absorbed through the skin and increases the rate of skin turnover, and gives an increase in collagen giving a more youthful appearance.

Salicylic Acid - BHA   (2-Hydroxybenzoic Acid)
A key additive in many skin-care products for the treatment of acne, psoriasis, dandruff and warts. It treats acne by causing skin cells to slough off more readily, preventing pores from clogging up.  The medicinal properties of salicylate (mainly the lowering of fever) have been known since ancient times. The substance occurs in the bark of willow trees and the name Salicylic acid is derived from the Latin name for the willow tree (Salix). Acetylsalicylic acid (Aspirin or ASA) can be prepared by the esterification of the phenolic hydroxyl group of salicylic acid.

Shea Butter

Derived from the karite tree of continental Africa, this thick butter has a variety of skin benefits. Moisturizing and nourishing, with some ability for cellular renewal having natural low level UV protection for the skin.

Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract  (Durutoside)
Extracted from the herb Siegesbeckia orientalis L, this small composite plant or small shrub is found around hot climates and common in China.  The plant has sticky bulbs and contains a white crystalline residue resembling salicylic acid. This extract helps regenerate skin tissue, promoting elasticity to damaged skin with collagen fibers.

Sunflower Oil
       
This light oil is natural, being a cosmetic grade that contains no BHA or BHT as in commercial products. High in linoleic acid and an excellent emollient, leaving a non-greasy feel.

Stearic Acid

This is typically used in the emulsification of lotions and creams and is considered a thickener. Derived from vegetable source.

Steareth-20
This is a Polyethoxylated Alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from natural oils and fats and is known by it's INCI name, Steareth-20. This is a simple and effective emulsifyer. It binds oils and water together to form an emulsion.


Sodium Borate
Persian burah also called sodium borate, is an important boron compound a mineral, and a salt of boric acis. Boric acid is a mild acid often used as an antiseptic.

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

Are  emulsifiers, solubilisers, wetting and cleaning agents.

Sodium Hydroxide
When added to water is a very strong alkaline required to make soap.

Sea Minerals (Biomin)
Extraction of sea salt and sea kelp containing a high content of ocean minerals. Contains Selenium, Magnesium, Copper, Zinc, Calcium and Germanium

Sucrose Cocoate

Sucrose cocoate is a natural soap derived from sugar beets and coconut oil. It is a cleansing agent and an emollient,  providing both moisturizing qualities and making soap gentle to the skin.

Triethanalomine (no longer used) Now Lactic Acid
Stabilizes pH. We use the absolute minimum of 0.02%.  It’s an
amine, as with any amines, it may have the potential to create nitrosamines, which are also found in Bacon, Sausages etc. N.B This is no longer used in Lybration products and has been replaced with Lactic Acid, which is present in sour milk, molasses, various fruits, and wines.

Wheat Protein
Naturally derived hydrolyzed wheat protein that contains wheat oligosaccharides (carbohydrates) and constitutes a unique hydrating complex.

Vegetable Glycerine
Derived from vegetable oil.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol / Non Acetate type)
Topical vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol or mixed tocopherols)  consists of several natural compounds, including alpha, beta, delta, and gamma tocopherol. Well known for its antioxidant capabilities and has been shown to significantly help in the reduction of scaring from wounds and help reduce the appearance of stretch marks on the skin

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
It is required for the synthesis of collagen, the intercellular cement which holds tissues together. It is also one of the major antioxidant nutrients. Vitamin C has been shown to help slow the production of hyperpigmentation ( age spots ) while providing some UV protection.


Xanthan Gum
Produced from the fermentation of corn sugar, xanthan gum is used as a thickener and emulsifier in the water phase of creams, lotions and a variety of body care products. Typically used in food products.

 
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